This is a (sideways) set of his and hers bath towel hooks, about 7″ tall and made of 1/4″ round stock..

I saw them several years ago in a house i was working in. the owner had died, the house sold and i never knew who made them.

To make the ladies hook, draw a dull flat point on one tip of 26″ long x 1/4″ round stock, working the the far edge o

reheat 18″, including the newly dressed tip, and wrap it around your small anvil cone.

i do 3 wraps

Reheat, lay the coil flat on top of the anvil and flatten it…sort of looks like an electric stove coil heating element

reheat and using your small ball pien hammer as a fuller, drive the ball pien into the arm of the j-hook ljust below the coil (with will be a screw hole recess)

SAFETY NOTE; For driving in the ball pien fuller, use a soft faced hammer so as not to chip one of the hammers and do serious harm to your body.

 now go to the remaining end, flatten a bit and spread with the cross pien, then spread and texture with a ball pien.

now make a scroll end by rolling the flattened tip AWAY from the coil

 you can do this with a small scroll tong, needle nose pliers or with the hammer and far edge of the anvil, rolling it down first, then turning it up and rolling it toward you.

now roll the jhook around the small anvil cone or on the front of the anvil horn. we want about a 2″ dia J.

 this completed the “female” coiled j-hook. the process is different for the male squiggle version…

 use 16″ of 1/4″ round for the male j-hook. Form the j-hook tip first (the small scroll tip), then then 2″ dia J roll, then match the length of the first hook and turn the top to the left by 90 degrees as shown on the following picture.

now draw a tapered round square point on the end sticking out to the left.

 that’s round or square, depending on your preference

 take a heat and close the circle like in the first picture

reheat and place upsiode down in the vice. and make the squiggle with your scrool tongs or needle nose pliers.

now reheat and form the screw recess with the ball pien fuller, matching location to the first hook.

now you have a hook even your significant other can tell from yours!

 lastly, i’d like to give you a few creative things to think about.

i think i said up front they are 7″ tall.

ah, yes…wiggling spurm and coiled egg. nature at her best 🙂

to think about:

the J-hook and L-hook are close relatives, the L hook usually being used for full-brim style hats while the J is used for ball caps, clothing, towels, etc

 The L hook, can be made with a tall stem so that the design on top is visible even when a hat is hanging in place.

Consider one job i did for a college basketball coach hat rack…

 a long stem L, with the top of the L flattened into a foot, large enough for two small rivets

then I made 4″ dia convex dishes, stippled them with a dull round nosed punch, and using a chasing chisel, made the 3 linds all basketballs have, you know one vertical, one curved on either side.

 I attached the dish to the L with small revits.

do you think that those could be made out of Octogon material or would the shape be distroyed by the hammering?

I made them of stainless, and burnished after forging, so the highlights were a deep black and the rest glistening stainless.

so, the point of all this is: don’t just think of J or L hooks as the simple things all beginners do. These are huge sellers in my business. Just be creative 🙂

and, you would have to be really good to make these out of 6 or 8 sided material!

 the trick would be to water cool all except the very small area you wanted to move.