Mark 2 lines, one 3/8″ parallel to the length and the other 1-1/4″ from the end. Mark this intersection point with a center punch.

This will be the the end point of the hot cut line from the intersection to the corner of the metal.

Punch a hole that will fit the size of the leather strap used. I used 1/2″ for a leather lace. Repeat the process on the other end of the metal.

It is most important to file ALL the metal edges of the loop section round and smooth. If not smooth, it WILL cut the leather holding strap. When fitting the creeper to the shoe, check to be sure the loop section does NOT rub against the shoe.

For the non-traditionalists, a hack saw or plasma cutter will work instead of the hot cutter. A drill will work instead of the punch.

The bending is the same. Feet go down and the loops goes up.

For the feet, sometimes it helps to put the creeper on end and use the hammer to get good 90 degree bends at the end of the cuts.

This will give a spike that is about 1″ long. It will wear some with use, and can easily be sharpened in a forge or with a file. My instep is 1/2″ to 3/4″ deep so that leaves about a 1/2″ of spike to grip into the ice or snow. The spike length can be adjusted to your weather, a bit shorter for ice, a bit longer for snow.

The leather strap ran from the front, through the inside loop, around the back, through the outside loop and tied in the front. That way it holds the creeper to the foot better.